Make your work come alive with these glass painting techniques and instructions

Any step-by-step guide to glass painting techniques has to include matting – or shading. It’s the process that will make your work look 3-D – like the drapery in church stained glass windows. It requires a very different temperament to other stain glass painting techniques – instead of spontaneously applying paint you’re patiently removing it with various brushes called ‘scrubs’.

Once you’ve made your painted line work permanent by firing it, you’re ready to paint over it with a wash – or matt – which you then proceed to work into gradually to reveal the colour underneath. Think of a steamed up window that you draw into to reveal the world beyond, and you’re on the right track…

What you need:

Glass palette. Palette knife. Water. Glass paint. Gum Arabic. Pipette. Glass paintbrushes – a badger brush (left in photo), various ‘scrubs’ and glass painting techniques a 1.5inch ox hair ‘mop’ (next to badger brush in photo). A light box.

Step one: Clean your glass

The painAt wash will separate out and be hard to apply evenly if the glass is dirty or greasy. You can clean it with alcohol – isopropyl is great, but equally good is a smear of your mixed paint rubbed over and then off your glass.

Step two: Charge your brush

As usual with glass painting techniques, getting the consistency of the glass paint is crucial. It needs to be runnier than the paint used for your line work – you’re creating a delicate wash rather than a solid one – so go for evaporated milk as a guide. Use water on your mop to dilute part of your beautifully mixed paint, and test the paint on your light box for depth of colour beforehand.

Step three: Apply the paint

You’re aiming to cover the surface of your glass with lines of glass paint. Use the mop at a 45degree angle to stroke the paint in continuous lines from one edge of the glass to another. You can’t hang around here, as the paint will start to dry and you need to blend it before it does so. The good thing about these particular glass painting techniques, is that if you make a mistake, you can go over it again with the mop and have another go.

Step four: Blend the paint

This is where the unique qualities of the badger brush come into play. stain glass painting Nothing else will do this job – they’re an expensive but essential part of your glass painting techniques equipment. You need to hold the badger at right angles to the glass and very lightly – barely touching the paint – make repeated figures of eight over the whole of the painted area. You’re aiming for an even coverage that is blended seamlessly. It’s not easy. I’d recommend lots of practice, with different consistencies of paint and darkness, until you start to feel confident with these glass painting techniques.

Step five: Stipple the matt (optional)

glass painting tips Once you’re happy with the matt, and before it’s dried, you can create a stippled effect by repeatedly dipping into the surface of the paint with the tip of the badger brush. This breaks up the paint and allows pinpricks of light to penetrate the matt. You can see from the photos how different an effect this produces. Once you’re happy with your wash, wait for it to dry, or if you’re impatient use a hairdryer. Now you’re ready to start playing for real!

Step six: Break into the surface of the matt

What with, you may ask? With absolutely anything that makes the kind of marks that you need for your particular project. This photo shows how you can use a crumpled up paper tissue to create a texture, or flick a drop or two of water on to create a halo effect. This is when the scrubs – cheap brushes modified by cutting – are used. If you want something subtler, you can stroke and dab away parts of your matting gently with softer brushes, to create a rounded, gentle effect. This sleeping squirrel was formed in this way by one of my students. The joy of these glass painting techniques is the freedom it allows you to experiment and explore. I’ve used bubble wrap, needles, sticks, cotton wool, netting, combs and sponges for texture – literally anything that gives me marks I’m looking for.

Step seven: Fire the glass

The matt will fire about 25% lighter in the kiln, but you can always do glass painting another layer – or more! – if it needs more depth and form.
Assuming it's simple glass paint mixed with water, I'd recommend the following (first figures in C, second in F):
Segment 1. 300/570 ph to 660(matt)-675(shiny) /1220-1250. Soak 5 mins.
Segment 2. Full to 560/1040. Soak 5 mins.
Segment 3. 10/50ph to 530/986. No soak. Off.

If you want information on how to save time and money by combining two firings, I’ve I’ve written Glass Painting Tips just for you!
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