This squaring stained glass tutorial is just one of the many useful mini-tutorials that are constantly being created in my Stained Glass Hub membership site. To find out more and get access click here.
This advice is for those who struggle with making sure a copper foiled panel is perfectly square - or rectangular. The process for stained glass leading is a tiny bit different so I’ll go through that another time.
Make sure your pattern is 100% accurate
1. First off, make sure your pattern right angles are absolutely accurate before you start cutting. This may sound obvious but you'd be surprised how many people don't check this!
2. Then cut accurately. You won’t achieve any squaring of right angles if you haven’t done both 1 and 2.
If you don't use a jig, pieces will move around and will not remain square
3. Use a jig to keep your stained glass true. You can either use Morton Layout System pinned into a homasote board or just bang 2 X 1″ batons of wood at right angles into chipboard or plywood, using the edges of your pattern as a guide. Double check everything with a T square before you bang the jig in place.
Use a jig set up like this to place your glass pieces into
N.B. Note the corners of the jig and how they butt up against each other – this is what you need to do for squaring a panel.
4. Finish cutting the pieces and place them on the pattern together. There should be a small gap between all the pieces of stained glass to accommodate the copper foil and solder. I use pins to make sure of this on fiddly patterns like this one to hold the pieces in position. This helps with squaring up - if you don't have this gap uniform the panel will grow and become misshapen.
Be careful that you don't catch the edge of the glass with the pins when you tap them in, this can result in chipping the glass.
Use pins as spacers to keep each piece in place
You can jiggle the shapes about a bit within the squaring jig once you have all 4 sides secured and grind only where necessary.
5. If it’s too difficult to move the pieces with all 4 batons in place, you can just use 2 – a vertical and horizontal – and pin the stained glass pieces one by one, grinding as you go.
If you choose this way, then carefully bang in the remaining 2 wooden batons or pin in the Morton Layout when you've finished cutting all the stained glass shapes and you’re happy that everything is fitting.
NB. If you don’t have the necessary gap in between each piece, your panel will grow and grow, so this is crucial.
6. Constantly check with a T square / right angle and keep measuring and squaring the edges. You have to work at squaring stained glass up, it doesn’t miraculously happen!
7. This mini-tutorial was taken from an answer to a question in the Stained Glass Hub. It is a private membership site with over 30 exclusive resources - videos, slideshows and eBooks. To find and more and get access click here. It would be lovely to see you in there!
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